Removing the cages from unsealed hubs:

Why?

• Increases strength by spreading the loads over more bearings, and constantly having a bearing directly underneath the load being applied.
• Smoother, because there are no stationary objects for the balls to rub against.

Why not?

• You will need to find more ball bearings than you have now (bike shops can help with this).
• It can be a pain in the ass to load the bearings into the hub.

Procedure:

• Disassemble the hub, leaving the clutch in the hub shell, and the non drive side cone nut threaded onto the axle.
• Apply a generous amount of sticky grease to the inside bearing race of the driver (where the Hub bearing sits) and the threads of the driver.
• Place as many bearings as you can (you should be left with only a couple millimeters of gap overall) onto the race of the driver.
• Insert the driver into the drive side of the hub shell. You can use a small screwdriver to push the balls down between the driver and the hub shell.
• Applying pressure to the driver, thread the clutch onto the driver, inside of the hub shell. Twist the driver tight, so they lock themselves into place.
• Add a generous amount of sticky grease to the non-drive-side hub-shell race. Load about 1/3 of the bearings that can fit onto the race, onto the race.
• Insert the non-drive-side cone nut (which should be threaded onto the axle) into the hub shell.
• Holding the Axle at an angle, load the remaining bearings down in between the cone and the hub shell.
• Holding the non-drive side axle at the bottom, pointing up, pack the outside of the driver with some more grease and bearings.
• Thread the drive-side cone nut on and adjust the lock nuts to your desired tension. *

* Something to Keep in Mind: As you ride your coaster, the bearings will break the grease in. This means that the grease will get shoved around until it is in the most efficient position. When this happens, the hub will feel a little bit loose. Just tighten the cone nuts up again, and you should be fine.

My Experience:

 I did this on a Sturmy Archer Coaster Brake (very similar to a Taska). I ran into the problem of the races being very small. This made seating the bearings, and having them stick, very difficult. If you follow the directions above, you will not run into the issues I had. Also, remember that you will need to do all of your normal maintenance when you are doing this. And expect to have a break in period, mine did.